Part 7
Pulling it right
A careful pull protects the part's value: photograph first, unplug instead of cutting, keep every bit of hardware, and never break a neighboring part you might want later.
Every pull
- Confirm the yard price before you start, then again at the register.
- Photograph the part in place, including the label, part number, connectors and bolt positions (Chesterfield DIY guide).
- Spray penetrating oil on rusty bolts and let it soak. Use the right size tool so you don't strip anything.
- Unplug connectors gently; damaged pins kill a module's value. Don't cut wiring you can unplug.
- Bag and label the hardware with the part.
- Practice new pulls on a cheap trim piece first, or rehearse on your own car at home.
Part-by-part tips
| Part | What to do |
|---|---|
| Engine computers and modules | Write down the full part number, software and calibration numbers before removal; buyers need an exact match. Check for water damage, burnt smells and bent pins (360 Virtual Autos). |
| Instrument clusters | Photograph the mileage on the display before you pull it. |
| Headlights and taillights | Inspect for chips, cracks and broken mounting tabs before you pay. |
| Radios, nav and amps | Check the screen with a microfiber cloth; note any theft-code labels. European units may need removal keys. |
| Seats | Check several cars; rain often soaks seats. Bolts may need E-Torx. Use a jump pack to move power seats. |
| Wheels | Check for bends and curb rash. Matching sets sell at a premium. |
| Calipers | Drain fluid and cap or bag the lines; keep the brackets. |
| Key fobs | Photograph a working fob if possible; many must be programmed to the buyer's car. |
Yard etiquette. Don't hide parts in other cars to buy later, don't disassemble alternators or starters if the yard prohibits it, and keep the yard's paint mark on parts in case you need the warranty.
General education, not legal or tax advice. Fees, carrier rates and rules change; check the linked sources before you rely on a number.